WEAR AND TEAR OF PRECIOUS METALS
The Hardness and the Scratch Resistance of Metals
Metals have a wide range of hardness, scratch resistance, and wear resistance. Precious metal is much different from alternative metal
What is a Precious Metal?
A precious metal is a non-magnetic metal with a considerable monetary value. The nine precious metal groups are gold, silver, platinum, palladium rhodium, iridium, osmium rhenium and ruthenium. The common precious metals are gold, silver, and the platinum family metals.
What is Considered an Alternative Metal for Jewelry?
Alternative metals in jewelry are not precious but are still used to make jewelry. These metals have low value, so they aren't considered precious. Alternative jewelry metals include cobalt chrome, stainless steel, black zirconium, titanium, and tungsten carbide. Alternative metals are great for applications like tools and tech industries, but have major drawbacks for jewelry.
Which Metal is Scratch Resistant?
The precious metals that are most scratch-resistant are platinum and 14k white and yellow gold. When comparing alternative metals to precious metals, the alternative metals have greater scratch resistance, yet there are many reasons to choose precious metals for your ring.
Any precious metal is going to show scratches, regardless of whether it is palladium, platinum or gold. None of these metals are scratch-resistant. The outliers for finish retention are sterling (serious scratching or denting) and stainless steel (minimal scratching or denting). The precious metals, including all the gold, platinum, and palladium, are going to scratch in a very similar fashion. In order, from our experience with thousands of rings, 18k yellow scratches the most, and 14k nickel white (which we prefer not to use) scratches the least, with palladium and platinum in between.
Why Choose Precious Metal for Your Ring?
The primary reason that a precious metal is best for your ring is that it is sizeable. Unlike ALL of the alternative metals, all precious metals can be sized. If you are either investing in a custom ring, or choosing a wedding or engagement ring that you want to wear for a lifetime, there is no other choice besides precious metal.
There are three other reasons to choose precious metal for your ring. Historically, wedding rings have been crafted in precious metal for over 2000 years. Philosophically, precious metal represents a precious relationship so much better than a metal that has no value. Lastly, a precious metal ring that has been worn and loved for a lifetime becomes a priceless heirloom that can be sized for loved ones to wear.
What Does Normal Wear on a Precious Metal Ring Look Like?
A newly finished ring of palladium and 18k white gold.
The ring after some months of wear, showing mild scuff marks on the high polished palladium.
A super soft buffing wheel at high speeds creates the high luster on a newly polished ring. This initial mirror surface will quickly show scuffing. Even a fingernail and paper can scratch or mar the mirror finish. Normal wear on a high polish surface will include superficial scuff marks that can be made by hard leather, wood and plastic (such as purses, briefcases, dishes, steering wheels), and small dents made by steel objects (such as door knobs, pots & pans, car doors). Gouges can be caused by barbels, lifting rocks or other heavy objects, carrying heavy bags with metal in the handles, rock climbing, opening heavy doors like a walk-in safe, and general moving of heavy objects.
How durable is platinum?
Platinum is very durable and has great wear resistance. Because of the high density, it is resistant to scratches. In addition, platinum behaves differently then gold, in that the metal moves or displaces rather than sloughing off or wearing down. In other words, after 20 years of wear, a platinum ring will weigh nearly the same as it did when new, but a gold ring will have lost weight.
For jewelry, the most popular alloy of platinum is platinum ruthenium, and it has a wonderful light gray color and an excellent hardness for rings. Historically, many platinum items before the 1990's were made with iridium, which was a softer and more malleable metal, that also seemed to have a darker gray color.
Wear Resistance Vs. Hardness
Wear resistance refers to how much or little a particular metal wears down over time, i.e., loses weight. Hardness refers to the resistance to denting. Platinum has the greatest wear resistance, followed closely by palladium. 10k and 14k golds will have the greatest hardness.
How To Avoid Scratches on Your Ring
Any broad, high-polish surface will show scratches. The only way to avoid scratches on your wedding band is to 1) choose a stainless steel wedding ring and 2) have a textured finish. Otherwise, all precious metals and shallow/superficial finishes (matte finish, brushed finish) will eventually take on a similar patina of wear.
Other Jewelry Care Resources
Sizing, Repairs & Refinishing
Jewelry Care Instructions
Cleaning Your Jewelry
Redesign Your Old Jewelry
Skin Irritation
Mokume Care
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